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2022 Suertes del Marqués Tenerife Valle de la Orotava Vidonia V.P.

$200.00

The wines of Vidonia, as this area was once known, were celebrated throughout 17th-century Europe. Canary wine was so prized that it even earned a mention in Shakespeare’s The Merry Wives of Windsor: “drink canary with him.” Today, Suertes del Marqués’ old-vine Listán Blanco cuvées have established themselves as some of Spain’s most distinctive and compelling white wines.

First released in 2020, V.P. stands for viñedos propios, meaning “estate vineyards”. It differs from the regular Vidonia primarily through its use of estate-grown fruit, and through fermentation in new 500L Stockinger barrels, giving the wine a more refined and polished profile. Just two barrels are produced each year, making this a tiny fraction of the village cuvée.

The fruit comes exclusively from 100-year-old Listán Blanco vines in Las Suertes—the same paraje that produces El Ciruelo—planted on clay and sandy soils. The wine spends 11 months ageing in the same barrels. Deep, structured and remarkably precise, this is Jonatan García’s interpretation of a great white Burgundy.

Seductively aromatic, V.P. opens with stone fruit, summer florals and a subtle smoky reduction. The palate is rich and deeply flavoured, combining ripe citrus with fresh saline notes, taut acidity and finely tuned grip. Powerful yet beautifully composed, it finishes with remarkable length and drive. A detailed, elegant and seriously compelling expression of Tenerife’s volcanic landscape.

12 in stock

Luis Gutiérrez, The Wine Advocate
The 2022 Vidonia V.P. comes from centenary cordón trenzado Listán Negro vines in the lieu-dit Las Suertes at 450 to 550 meters above sea level. It fermented in new 500-litre Stockinger barrels, where the wine matured for 11 months, which gives it a more Burgundian profile. It has lower alcohol than the 2021, 12.55%, very good freshness and acidity. The wine had been very recently bottled when I tasted it, and the nose was not focused. The search of finesse with this Listán Blanco is to age it in the style of producers he likes, like Roulot and Pierre-Yves Colin, using new barrels, but it can’t be any barrel. 95+ points