2016 Bénédicte et Stéphane Tissot Arbois Vin Jaune La Mailloche

The low-yielding, biodynamically farmed Savagnin grapes used for these Vin Jaunes are hand-harvested and fermented in stainless steel tanks. Grown primarily on clay soils, the grapes produce wines with higher acidity and a strong backbone (by contrast, limestone soils tend to yield wines with lower acidity and more pronounced minerality).

After primary fermentation, the wine is transferred, about 85% full—into old 228-litre barrels, where a natural yeast veil known as the voile (similar to flor) forms on the surface. This veil protects the wine from oxidation while contributing layers of complex aromas and flavours.

The barrels are then aged in a cool but ventilated (above-ground) cellar for approximately six to seven years. The dry air causes gradual evaporation, concentrating the wine and reducing its volume, so much so that only around 620ml remains from each original litre, which corresponds to the traditional size of a Vin Jaune bottle. This long ageing process, along with the significant volume loss and necessary barrel selection, makes Vin Jaune an expensive wine to produce.

The La Mailloche vineyard faces gently east and features highly degraded Liassic clay soils. The resulting wine is firm and structured, with seductive weight and a touch of refined bitterness.